South Poland - Krakow and Surrounds

 

25 November - 10 December

 

 

Saying farewell to Budapest and a 6am flight back to Eindhoven - Netherlands.   I am catching with friends and receiving a package of new shoes!!  It is great to see familiar faces and even privileged to be staying in a room to my self! Am not quite sure what to do with all the space!

 

The week has been great spending time out on the bikes,  catching the local soccer matches, chilling with the Hendriks and Geerts Families and even catching a friends band for a evening.  We did happen to receive the most expensive parking ticket of 90 euro for failing to pay and display in Gilse...  but other wise smiles all round and after 7 days of great hospitality I'm back on a plane heading east to Poland.

 

Which is friking cold and a lot colder than forgetting to wear gloves whilst cycling in Holland.  Brrr,  I am invited to spend time in Katowice with a local law advocate which sounded brilliant but after talking I decide staying my first night in the hostel is ideal so I could leave my things at the hostel  keeping it safe and less for me to carry my prospective host went rather quite and swung round to saying they were busy.  Think I was lucky as I have a sneaky suspicion my passport, camera and laptop might have gone walkabout and found a new home.

 

Katowice is a university and industrial city and is not particular touristy but is handy for making your way to Krakow. Which is the second largest and one of the oldest cities in Poland. It is situated on the Vistula River in the Lesser Poland region and dates back to the 7th century. Kraków has traditionally been one of the leading centres of Polish academic, cultural, and artistic life and is one of Poland's most important economic hubs. But of course most people know of it for its history in WWII  with Mr Schindler's Factory being located here and its proximity to Auschwitz.   There are also the famous Salt Mines in the area which if you are ever in the vicinity you must visit!

The 5th December was a day trip to Auschwitz - I'm not quite sure what to say about the place as for

each person the experience is different but I will let you know that although my photographs look warm we had snow the night before and a bitting wind which gave us a temperature of about -8 degrees.  Of course I had the luxury of thermals and a ski Jacket but I still felt this was just enough clothing,  if it was available I would have popped a hot water bottle into my layers.   You may ask why I wanted to visit in winter but I felt that this would give more of a impression especially after studying the topic intensively at high school.   But I must say there is nothing that will prepare you for looking at 2 tonne of hair that has been preserved for the museum. Apparently it was used as a fibre in blankets. 

 

It has snowed again over night and is still tying to exert its dominance over the wind and the surrounds - I did try and join  the local walking tour with another hostel mate but after 45minutes and a snow exfoliation facial we give up on the idea and spend the day hiding out in a local coffee shop drinking far to many gingerbread lattes and watching the locals and tourists out the window battling the elements before heading out for a evening meal of delicious hot beetroot soup, dumplings, spinach and fetta wrapped in pork croquets, potatoes cooked with dill and a dash of salt. All for the huge price of $8 NZ dollars.  The following day the weather is still crap now most of you  know I like snow but its usually in a place such as a ski field! and I'm getting a little over this constant on off thing with wind that is going on here.  You cant don't anything with it other than watch the locals have fun in their cars swinging the arse end of their autos out as they go around corners and its not nice enough to want to be out in it making a snowman.

 

I have also had my first experience of something being stolen  -  and although I'm happy it is nothing like my passport, electronic or shoes I am frustrated at loosing all my clean underwear and pyjamas.  But chin up as it's all replaceable and I'm off to the Wieliczka Salt Mine.  The tour is almost 3 kilometres of meandering corridor with roughly 350 steps descended to reach the depth of 135 meters underground. It's brilliant with chambers chiselled out in rock salt which yes I did have to lick - and yes it does taste salty (don't ask it just amused me)  There are underground saline lakes, majestic timber constructions, unique statues sculpted in salt and even a church or chapel where you can get married if you are so inclined.

Another thing to mention is the Krakow Christmas Markets - brilliant,  all the different hand made items,  the different shaped baubles and the food brill!!  If your in Europe in Christmas put any Christmas market on your to do list. 

 

My last day see's me popping over to 4 Lipowa Street in the city’s grim industrial district of Zablocie on the right bank of Wisla river to check out the Oskar Schindler Enamelled Goods Factory  Museum which is well worth a visit. The museum does not confine itself to the history of Schindler and his list which did surprise me but covers the history of the occupation of Krakow from September 1939 right through to what the Polish call the second occupation of Soviet forces from 1945 to 1989. It's a collection of echoes from the past  sounds, room sets and letters  that break down the horrific statistics of the Holocaust into personal notes left by Jehovah's Witnesses, Homosexuals, Romanies and of course Polish both Jewish and non Jewish.

The inclusion of a No 3 tram reminds you that it ran without stopping through the ghetto with seats reserved for Germans. Small boys would sometimes throw bread out of the windows to the ghetto's occupants. Film director Roman Polanski may well have caught a small loaf while living in the ghetto as an eight-year-old and wrote a short note at the time now on display which demonstrates why many think his film about the Warsaw Ghetto The Pianist is one of the best. At the end of your visit, standing by Schindler's desk, surrounded by pots and pans while listening to the tales of his 1,200 surviving Schindlerjuden - Schindler's Jews it can be difficult to separate Hollywood from reality.

 

It was quite abit to take in and I'm glad the sun is out as I quietly walk back through the old Jewish quarters to my hostel before departing on a over night train to Slovakia. 

 

 

(Christmas Market Food Stall)

(Lunch - Wurst, Sour Krauat and bread!)

(Wieliczka-Salt Mine)

(Wieliczka-Salt Mine)

(Wieliczka-Salt Mine Chappel)

(Wieliczka-Salt Mine Chappel - yes all carved in salt stone)



(Auschwitz - Birkenau)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(Krakow - Main Square)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Budapest - Hungry - The Capital in a Week

 

16 November 2013

 

 

My first impression of the Capital of Hungary is a good one,  I quietly wander the city until 2:30pm when the free walking tour is going to take place.  Which is popular there must be at least 100 people milling around whilst I'm busy munching on lunch I spy both ladies  (also single travels) from the bus last night from Slovenia  on the tour also very much a coincidence!  So we decided that it  was meant to be and we should hang out whilst we are in town!

 

The walking tour is interesting - everyone was relieved when the group was split.  I ended up a little side tracked and ended up at a Greenpeace Protest against the Artic 30  with Gayle and was for a short time locked in a cage - who would have thought.  Managed to spot the tour on ahead of us and catch up with them.  Our tour guide teaches us some Hungarian I now only remember  " I guess she can drive"  which when said in english with the words run together sounds like the Hungarian way to say cheers whilst toasting your drinks!  Which is great as after our tour we decide to hit the local Ruins Bars. 

 

The bars are situated in Budapest’s District VII neighbourhood the old Jewish quarter in the ruins (hence the name) of abandoned buildings, stores, or lots. The neighbourhood was left to decay after World War II so it was a perfect place for an underground bar scene to flourish. (Not so underground anymore though.) From outside, these bars look like normal homes or abandoned buildings they don’t have large signs pointing the way, you don’t hear any loud noise, and there’s no line of people waiting to get in. When you are in these bars, you feel like you are drinking at your local thrift store. None of the furniture matches. It’s all old. It’s eclectic and  feels like they just ransacked your grandmother’s house including the curtains.

Great for a night out,  of course we stayed till closing time and met some locals who took us out some other local joints and to catch a sunrise - which would have been great if there had been no fog or that we got misplaced on our walk home....

Not to worry though,  at 3 in the arvo after a sleep the three of us meet at  Hospital In The Rock Museum. The emergency hospital dates to World War II, when Castle District was part of the Government Quarter. The caves and tunnels were connected and fortified and used as an air raid shelter. On the orders of the Mayor of Budapest an emergency surgical hospital was also built within the caves beneath Buda Castle Hill. The hospital was actively used during WW II until July 1945 and then during the 1956 Revolution to treat wounded civilians and soldiers. Between 1958 and 1962 it was expanded to withstand potential chemical and nuclear attacks during the Cold War. 

 



The following day we agree to meet at the pools but due the fact there are three entrances we miss each other but the pools are great and very relaxing,   I swim lengths,  luckily I have my orange swim cap as for some odd reason it is against the rules to not wear on in the lap pool. The evening see's me off out to catch a NZ Band - Unknown Mortal Orchestra at A38 a renovated Ukrainian stone-carrier ship moored on the Danube and a great venue! Met a lot of locals who even had the bands vinyl records out to be signed,  very impressed and they are a neat group of people.  Fantastic night.

 

We have another try at organising a group for the pools and this time succeed,  and I'm quite happy to laze around chatting and watching a chess game being played out in the pool.  yep in the pool.

The complex is very large and has numerous pools indoor and out ranging in temperature from the plunge pool for those using the saunas to a relaxing 38 degrees in a medicinal pool.

 

I thought I would spend my last day in Budapest just cruising doing some writing but how wrong I was - a friend I travelled with in Bulgaria is in town and after a couple nights out on the town together she recommend that we spend the day Caving and the evening at Exit Point -  I'm in - no questions asked  -  love the experience  had a lot of fun - got stuck once in the cave and enjoyed playing around in the systems.  Exit point - Imagine that you and your mates are locked up in a dark, creepy cellar and have only one hour to escape. You have to find clues, keys and the way to the exit through a series of rooms puzzles and mind-breakers. 

 

To top the day off we go out for a evening meal  - its not often that you can say you spent 2500 on a meal but as we are talking Forint  it equals about $14 NZ and is a beautiful three course (my main is duck mmmm)  and glass of wine.

 

I have loved my time here and  the people that I have spent it with. Although I have not ventured far outside the capital I do recommend you put this down on your destination list. And I hope to be able to come back sometime in the future during a warmer month of the year to do some further exploring. 

 

 

 

 

 

(looking to the Buda side of town and Buda Castle)

(Greenpeace Demonstration)

(Looking towards St Stephan's Basilica)

 

(Inside Buda Caste Grounds)

(Famous Chain Bridge)

(Fishermans Bastion)

(Hungarian Parliament Building)

(Ruins Bar)

(Missed the sunrise)

(Hospital in the Rock - Nuclear fallout shelter display)

 

(Guard at the Priminsters House next to Caste Buda)

(A82 - Music Concert - fans rocking out to kiwi music)

(Szechengi Pools - Chess time)

(Szechengi Pools by night)

Slovenia - a rental car and a missed bus.

11 November,

 

Moving day,  the weather has packed in,  cold and everyone is in pants - this crazy kiwi tourist is still rocking shorts!!  oh yea - and its a great talking point, doesn't matter which language you speak I will make friends especially whilst drinking coffee and absent mindedly watching the departures board as my train to Slovenia is 40 minutes behind schedule.  Departure is now 1:00pm . I get chatting with a younger Australian lady who was squinting up at the departures board and looking abit lost - turns out we are going the same way so more coffee!  We to share a cabin over the border crossing.

I was questioned this is a first for me - but I fly through with full colours and nothing like the harrowing experience of my friends over the Bosnia/Croatia Border.

 

I'm a little in shock as we make our way closer to the capital and further away from Croatia and Eastern Europe -  what?!  -  open fields are manicured and mowed there is no rubbish or donkey I spy some portable fences my brain is struggling to comprehend.  Where am I going is it so organised?!!

 

Arrival into the capital - I haven't booked a hostel but find one 10 minuets walk from central town that is warm, friendly and bonus has a local wine tasting night!! 

 

Am onto a winner today,  I am off to Lake Bled and after two other travellers hear we decide to discover the local transport together until - I realise we will only be spending a extra 10 euro if we hire a car!  Brilliant idea,  I'm happy to drive we spilt the costs and we have bit more freedom especially as I manage to persuade the rental agency to throw in free hire of GPS and a late return time of lunch tomorrow  -   Don't ask how I managed this but I did.   We zoom out onto the highway (speed limit 130km) and pick up two hitchhikers - who are very surprised that none of us are locals. Between the five of us we are, Aussie, Brazilian, Israeli a lone Slovenian and yours truly the kiwi .  Doing pretty good continent wise - English really is a universal language as we can freely communicate with each other.

 

The morning is spent wandering around Lake Bled,  we were interested in catching a local boat to the island in the centre but as no one was presently there to take our monies we missed out. After goofing around for a couple of hours our hitch hikers head back to the road and we go in search for lunch - which ends up being cheap pizza....  Cant complain tourist season is over and its a week day.  After our quick meal we discuss where to next -  a lap of the lake is done and we decide to head over to Lake Bohinj which is where all the skiers and fisherman hang out.  Its a very cool place, part of the Triglav National Parks and the  Julian Alps.  If it was warmer weather I would be very temped to climb Triglav - which is the highest mountain in Slovenia.  Apparently it is a national pass time and the locals say your not a Slovenian until you have climbed it at least once.  Deciding that we are so close we pop into the national park for a wander and by chance discover a national park shop/information where the two others plastic bag their feet before wandering up through the snow Savica waterfall. Which although neat to visit is nothing in comparison to what I have seen in Croatia or the Sutherland Falls, Fiordland.



(Kamnik)

We are home late and decide not to go out into town,  but rather to get up early and go exploring!   Which see's us off to a town called Kamnik which lives on the banks of the Bistrica River, where the patina of the roofs, church steeples, and castle ruins merges with the neighbouring high hills and plains of the Kamniške Alps,  not as spectacular as Lake Bohinj but a nice to wander around watch the locals go about their daily business.
Car returned safely and I realise we can make the free tour!  Which sees us wandering around the city for three hours,  the tour guide is great with all sorts of titbits such as prior to the Yugoslavian Republic speaking their native language was banned and when the Republic came into power they introduced the Slovenian language into the university for the first time.   I also did  not realise that in the 15 century the Jewish Community were persecuted and expelled. After the Second World War the population never really expanded and is  now about 500 peoples. A new Synagogue was built in 2003 which is the only one in the capital  since  WWII.  The tour even gets us a tasting at the local markets and I discover my taste buds are not adverse to shredded turnip - don't turn your nose up I quite liked it.

The 14 November and I should be making my way to Hungary but I might have missed my bus (luckily I have managed to get my ticket changed over).  The train departs at 6am the bus at 3 and as these only depart once a day I'm not going far.  But upon return to the hostel I meet a really cool family from Dargaville (The parents are in their late 60's early 70's and are doing their first ever Europe trip with their youngest daughter)  So cool - I offer to be tour guide for the evening and spend a lovely time wandering through Metelkova (street art and alternative neighbourhood) and the old town before popping out for mulled wine/hot chocolate and a evening meal.

The following day I cruise around until 2:30 pm going to be early for the bus to Budapest - Hungary.
As yesterday it departed early and right in front of me and did not stop.  But all is good I manage to climb on board and cant believe how empty the service is!  Its got to be a 40 or 50 seater and there are 6 of us - I now understand why there only one service a day.  The trip requires us to go back through Zagreb in Croatia but as we leave late and its getting darker earlier I don't get to see a lot.   But after a sleep  I get talking to another couple of ladies on the bus.  We are all staying at different backpackers and after catching the metro we part ways wishing each other good holidays and travels.

Hungary update on its way hope you are all well and enjoying some sunshine!

 

 

(Lake Bled - One Kiwi, Aussie and Brazilian)

 

 

(my posing duck - Lake Bohinj)

(Lake Bohinj)



(Savica waterfall)

(Triglav National Park)

 

(Lake Bohinj)

(The Town of Log)

 

(Hay Making)

(Kamnik)

(Kamnik)

(Busker with traditional bagpipes  - Ljubljana)

(Market Day)

(These guys were busking 24/7 it seemed and played a mean tune)

(Ljubljana - Dragons are apparently a city thing)



(Metelkova street art and alternative scene)

 

(The Centre of Ljubljana by night)